Most vacations involve escaping to exotic destinations or bonding with friends and family. All good. But learning new skills can boost confidence and make life sparkle again. My winter trip to Colorado enabled me to learn Nordic skiing and horseback riding from expert instructors. Now I'm hooked.

The Sound of Schuss

The Main Lodge at Devil's Thumb Ranch welcomes guest with the aroma of weathered cowboy boots, 10-gallon western hats, hand tooled saddles, and gorgeous Indian rugs. Enormous stone fireplaces throughout the Lodge lure guests to daydream while warming frozen toes and fingers.

Devil's Thumb Ranch is an eco-friendly, luxury year round ranch, resort, spa, and corporate retreat in Tabernash, Colorado. On 5,000 magnificent acres sixty-five miles west of Denver, owners Bob and Suzanne Fanch have created an award-winning resort for cross country skiing, snowshoeing, horseback riding, fly-fishing, mountain biking, and any outdoor fun you can think up. If relaxation is what you seek, then indulge in luxurious Spa treatments, or float in the heated indoor/outdoor pool, gazing at the Continental Divide.

The temperature today is only ten above zero, but I can't resist playing in snow sparkling like diamonds. I layer on three sweaters, ski parka, ski pants, hat, gloves, and two pairs of socks, inside fur lined boots. At Zach's Mercantile & Rental Shop, I meet my ski instructor, Tim Carter.

"Hey Tim," I confess, "I'm a cross country ski newbie. Can you teach me to schuss without breaking my back?"

Tim smiles, he's heard this before. The Center staff outfits me with snazzy boots, skis, and poles and we head outside. In the sunny Ranch Creek Valley, Tim demos how to transfer my weight from left foot to right foot, using my arms to rhythmically swing forward. Poles help move you forward in the tracks. Tim's form is dancer perfect. I'm awkward as a newborn calf. But Tim skis alongside me, coaching.

"I can see by your stride that you've got the strength for this sport, Sharon. "Good balance. You're doing great!"

Maybe all those yoga classes will help me now.

With Tim suggesting tips and techniques, I'm soon skiing smoothly and confidently. The only sound is my breath, my heart, and the schuss of skis on squeaky snow.

"Let's head down toward those willows," Tim suggests. "Might see a herd of moose." Gleaming creeks undulating through magenta willows, purple peaks undulating in the distance, brilliant turquoise sky. Could it be more gorgeous anywhere on Earth? Out in the pasture, a buckwheat horse whinnies hello. Cold? I'm peeling off sweaters and gloves, huffing and puffing.

Two challenging hours later, I thank my ski coach for introducing me to this exhilarating sport. Then dutifully, I report to the Ranch Creek Spa for a steam sauna and a heavenly deep tissue massage. That night in John L's Wine Cellar, seated among 3,500 bottles of fine wines and good friends, we share ski stories over mushroom crusted sea scallops, arctic char, and decadent chocolate soufflé.

Back in my cozy room, I light a fire and snuggle into a velour robe, dreaming about my newfound love: cross-country skiing. Tomorrow I'll schuss again under the watchful eye of the Continental Divide. Maybe I'll even spot a moose.

The Sound of Hooves

A few days later, we check in at Lazy C U Ranch, down the road in Granby. My lovely room with a comfy couch and fireplace overlooks gorgeous horses grazing on hay at the Stable.

On my bed a leather pillow says "Lazy C U Ranch, miles above the ordinary since 1919. Sled races, ice skating, skiing, horseback riding, hot chocolate, good fellowship."

Considered the premier Dude Ranch in Colorado, the only North American guest ranch to achieve Five Star and Five Diamond awards, Lazy C U Ranch is a winter wonderland, offering private downhill snowcat skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, ice hockey, along with rejuvenating spa treatments in canvas tents overlooking Willow Creek. In the summer, there's family fun like swimming, fishing, hiking, white water rafting, hot air ballooning, campfires, ice cream parties and of course….lessons and riding the ranch's 180 plus horses.

At the Stables I meet Dustin Call, who looks he was born on a horse. Turns out he grew up on a North Carolina horse farm, performed in cowboy shows, and now is a Wrangler/Riding Instructor at Lazy C U Ranch.

"I'd love a riding lesson, Dustin. But do you have any horses a five year old could ride? I'm kinda scared of horses…."

Dustin laughs, he's heard this before.

"Yeah, we'll put you on Thunder, our twelve year old Appaloosa. Very gentle. Join our class inside the Arena in one hour, ok?"

Thunder? For beginner riders? Is there a Lightning for advanced riders? Once again, I pull on all the clothing I've brought, against the ten degrees above zero cold, and meet Dustin in the Arena for "Overcoming fear of Horses, 101".

There are other adult wimps in this class, even a woman wearing a helmet on top of her winter hat. Her face says what we're all thinking:

"Please keep us from falling off our horses."

"It's important to be respectful of your horse," says Dustin, "and let him know you are in charge. No yanking the bit, or hard kicking. You're asking your horse to do what you want."

For two hours, Dustin teaches us rein techniques, how to turn our horse right and left, back up, circle. We learn techniques for roping one cow out of the herd, now that's something I'll use in Charleston.

We gain confidence, once we understand how reins communicate the rider's commands to her horse. Finishing class with posting, trotting and cantering exercises, Dustin looks pleased.

He decides our class is ready for a mountain trail ride after lunch.

After feasting on baked chicken and fresh blackberries, Thunder and I gear up, and then follow our Wrangler up and down steep snowy trails. Dustin's expert instructions have transformed my fear of horses into exhilaration.

An hour in the stunning snowy mountains has turned me into a popsicle, but Thunder returns me safely to the Stable. Down the road, I discover a circle of beige tents clustered along Willow Creek, with a sign, "Lazy U Spa." I enter a tent, warmed by a wood-burning stove, perfumed with lavender.

"Ready to thaw out?" smiles my masseuse, Jane. I climb

onto the massage table and give her my frozen carcass.

Knots on my sore legs and back are soon gone as we laugh over Jane's tales about raising three kids in small town Colorado.

An hour later, I emerge recharged, and amble to my cabin as the sun tints the Rocky Mountains deep gold. I can't wait until tomorrow's mountain trail adventure, listening to Thunder's hooves crunching on snow.

C 2010 Story and Photos Sharon Spence Lieb