Back to the to do list: Spray dormant oils on trees
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Bill Lamson-Scribner
Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Dormant oils (horticultural oils, superior oils, parafine oils, Volck oils …) are great to spray now on your trees and shrubs. Be sure to read the label and make sure the temperatures are going to be in an acceptable range when you spray. Oils are a very environmentally friendly way to control insects and mites. Oils are friendly to the applicator also. Oils mainly control the eggs, so it is like applying preemergent insect control.
Neem oil plus pyrethrin is an organic product that is good to apply now. Neem oil has insecticide, miticide and fungicide properties. The pyrethrin will also kill adults that are still active. This product can be applied to turf, shrubs and trees, and with all the recent rain, Neem Py will do a nice job of killing mosquitoes.
With all the rain, I must mention a newer product that is a pre-mix of Malathion and Oil. Although it is not as “green” as Neem Py, we have been getting excellent feedback in the stores about the combinations ability to kill mites, whiteflies, scale and aphids. Although not on the label, you may realize the mosquito population has decreased as a bonus. Malathion alone is labeled for mosquitoes.
If you plan to transplant any trees or shrubs over the winter, now is a good time to root prune the plant to develop a tight ball for the move.  If you have the luxury, it is good to get 12 inches of ball for every inch diameter of plant trunk.  
If you have a 3 inch tree, you would want to try to get 36 inches of root ball.  Most people move plants because they are overcrowded or against a structure.  If you can not get 12 inches of ball for every 1 inch of tree diameter, try to get as big of a root ball as possible.
Take a shovel and push it straight down into the ground.  Do not try to pry or dig the plant up at this point - just sever its roots.  By doing this you will train roots to grow close to the main trunk so you can move the plant later on when it gets cooler. Consider treating this balled area with Transplant 1-Step. This will help to encourage new young roots and mycorrhiza – a friendly fungus.
If the plant you are moving is an evergreen, spray the foliage with an anti-transpirant like Transfilm, Wilt Proof or Vapor Guard. An anti-transpirant will decrease the need for water for the plant. Since the roots were just severed, the less water needed the better.
In a month or two you will be able move the plant. Hopefully, the root pruning will encourage lots of new roots and you will have a successful transplant. Dig away from the area where you originally severed the roots, so you have a mote around the plant. Water the ball lightly so the soil stays with the ball. Cut underneath the ball and slide the ball onto some burlap or a tarp. Only handle the ball, do not grab the stalk or trunk of the plant.
When you move the plant to its new home, be sure to plant it at or above (1 to 2 inches) existing grade.
Apply some root growing fertilizer (m-roots, Hydrahume, Possum’s Root Accelerator) and reapply an anti-transpirant.
Roaches, rats, mice, and squirrels will be coming in from the cold. Have your pest management company number on speed dial, or if you are a do it yourselfer, get the golf club, hockey stick, baseball bat … ready for action!
Large Patch anyone?

Bill Lamson-Scribner can be reached during the week at Possum’s Landscape and Pest Control Supply, 481 Long Point Rd in Mt. Pleasant (971-9601), 3325 Business Circle in North Charleston (760-2600), or 606 Dupont Rd, in Charleston (766-1511).  Fax your questions to 406-2700 or e-mail them to your newspaper’s editors. You can also call in your questions to “ The Garden Clinic”, Saturdays from 12-1 p.m., on 1250 WTMA  (The Big Talker).