The gentle giants of Cancun

  • Tuesday, September 18, 2012

A really big fish
A full yellow moon rises over the shimmering turquoise Caribbean. At dawn, no one strolls the ivory beach. No one splashes in the cerulean pools. But out in the deep, the largest fish on Planet Earth are waking.
Two hours later, onboard a Solo Buceo dive boat, our guide Gabriel hands out life jackets, masks, snorkels and fins. The sea roils with 35 foot long 10-ton giants, swimming gracefully like plus size ballerinas.
"Wow. Weíve got 40 whale sharks around our boat. Stay close to me and watch out for their tails," cautions Gabriel. When your guide is named after an Angel, you donít have to worry, just follow instructions.
Looking into the sea of giant fish, I force myself to jump off the boat. A grey white spotted creature the size of a school bus is in my face. Her huge hula-hoop mouth vacuums in the plankton and krill soup.
Feasting and birthing babies, these whale sharks come to Cancun every May through September.
Swimming among them is an incredible joy. I hold Gabrielís hand, trying to stay calm.
One whale shark swims right at me for a closer look.
These fish donít eat humans, I remind myself. Take a deep breath. Iím frightened and thrilled.
A wise calm eye regards me with curiosity. Underwater, sheís witnessed our planetís madness and marvels, navigating the globe at 2,500-foot depths. I donít belong here, but she does. As a rainbow arches over our whale shark party, I can only murmur "Thank you."
Climbing back into our boat, she follows me and lifts her massive head. Iím given a really big whale shark smile. What a gift.

Really tiny fish
After our dramatic whale shark encounter, we crave some relaxation at LeBlanc Spa Resort. We immerse our feet into a small tank for the Fish Spa pedicure. Tropical Garra Rufa fish surround our feet and ankles, nibbling gently to remove dead skin cells. These fish from Turkey are tiny beams of colorful energy. In five minutes, my feet are smooth, soft and feel Ĺ size smaller. Relaxed and recharged from this unusual treatment, Iím ready for more Cancun adventures.

Delish fish

A comfortable airconditioned ferry takes us to Isla Mujeres. Erika Mitzunaga Magana, Cancun PR Manager for North America/Asia describes the island as "a picturesque Mexican Caribbean island, perfect for relaxation, authentic cuisine, and great prices on handicrafts and silver."
We wander past charming rainbow hued houses, browsing outdoor stalls selling hats, dresses and souvenirs. Inside The Silver Factory, owner Adolfo Fabian Beltran and his family welcome us. They offer us chicken and posole, as Erika and I try on every necklace and bracelet in the tiny shop.
All fine quality silver from Taxco Mexico. I finally choose a delicate sea star pendant with matching earrings. A perfect souvenir for time well spent with the Beltran family.
For lunch, we take a taxi to Museum Capitan Dulche. This hip outdoor beach club offers gorgeous Caribbean views, thatched roof cabanas, a private lagoon for swimming and an outdoor bar/restaurant. Los Metates Restaurant serves authentic Mexican dishes like "tikinxic," a fresh grouper fillet marinated with achiote paste, sour oranges, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on a wood fire.
Owner Iddar de la Parra Vargas tours our group through his "Museo Capitan Dulche," featuring photos of his grandfather Captain Ernesto, a legendary naval officer and maritime explorer, and models of famous ships from England, Norway, Spain, even Jacques Cousteauís "Calypso."
Nearby the Beach Club, we snorkel at Cancunís new Underwater Museum, a fascinating collection of 400+ sculptures on the bottom of the ocean. Internationally acclaimed eco-sculptor Jason de Caires Taylor has created an incredible underwater world of life-sized humans, an Urban reef, even his interpretation of "The Last Supper."
All sizes of fish and coral live happily within this innovative reef, a successful marriage of helping the environment and providing new homes to Cancunís marine life.
Thereís a reason Cancun is Mexicoís world-renowned number one tourist destination.
Hospitality is genuine, beaches are stunning, resorts luxurious, spas pampering, and the international cuisine is delicious. And once youíve been eye to eye with whale sharks, gentle giants of the seas, youíll return every year to play with them.

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